Introduction

My Aragonese Camino started in 2018 is now completed.

The first part was from Lourdes in France, in 2018, over the mountains at Somport, in Spain, and I stopped at Jaca when I broke my leg - this was done as part of a tour group. 

The part just completed was from Jaca to Puente la Reina, solo, following the route found at gronze.com/camino-aragones I did not always walk the indicated distances. This camino is very very different to the popular French Camino and has no similarity to the 2010 movie 'The Way'.

My rucksack was carried by Correos during the week, not the weekend. The temperature was between 35 and 40 degrees C.

The route

The pilgrim passport with all the stamps

The language guide

2 August - Puente la Reina to Pamplona

Diary

In Puente la Reina walked down to the bus stop and at the scheduled time of 11.27 the bus arrived. The Spanish transport system of buses and trains is superb. Went to Pamplona. Had a coffee and sandwich and then booked into a hotel. It had been a choice between a hotel or an albergue, but I wanted to be alone and get up after 6. So nice to have one own's space. 

Nice and quiet. Calm city, not as frenetic as Madrid but maybe it is just where I am having lunch on the plaza.

3 August - Pamplona to Madrid

Diary

Took a taxi from the hotel to Pamplona train station, and caught the train to Madrid. Took a taxi to the pre-booked hotel, the same one I had used three weeks earlier. Now three weeks ago I left Cape Town in 12 degrees wearing a jacket and beanie, and the plane was very cold so I wore them on the plane. I arrived to 35 degrees in Madrid. I did not plan to carry my jacket and hat across Spain in the heat wave, so I dumped them at the hotel. I did not know what my plans were except that I was flying out of Madrid. Yesterday I decided to spend my preflight night in Madrid, and booked the same hotel. I thought a jacket and beanie would be needed on the plane, and considered replacing those items here, if necessary. I enquired at reception if by chance they had found the clothes and still had them. Hostal Lauria is to be commended. I have those clothes!

Madrid is hot and frenetic. The streets are full of people - it is difficult to believe. My room is over the Via Grande, the door is open and at 23h00 the street is still busy.

A lift to get a wheel chair up the few steps into the bar. Spain caters for the disabled.

A train full of cars (In South Africa the cars would have been stolen off the train). I remembered this station from 2011 when I did my first Camino. We arrived here by train from Madrid, and caught the bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Roman viaducts in the distance

 

29 July - Day 7 - Sanguesa to Lumbier - 10 km (landed up being 15 km)

Diary

Set off from Saguesa okay. Sara and I walked together and then Sara went ahead of me. I walked slowly but caught up with her because she had stopped. She realised that we were on the wrong track. We did not know what to do. Two local ladies came past and told us that we were on the wrong road. We had to turn around and do another extra 5 km. Sara went on ahead - she was going to Monreal and I was going to Lumbier.

(I have now found the route on Gronze.com)  I thought I got lost. I tried to follow the signs, some things I felt were wrong. Eventually, I started using Google Map. Google Map told me that to get to Lumbier I had to travel along the highway. It was raining. I had on my black poncho, and me walking around the highway. The police stopped. They wanted to know where I was going and why I was walking on the highway. I tried to explain that's the only way that I knew to get to Lumbier. Well, they took a photograph of my passport, they made me install an app to alert the police of danger and then tried themselves to find a way to get to Lumbier that wasn't on the highway. They could not. They gave me permission to go along the highway which is what I did for about 5-6 km. Along the way, I stopped at a bar for a coffee and bocadilia.

When I came out I again tried to find the right way. I was told to follow the yellow arrows. I got lost again but the police found me - they had been looking for me - they put me on what they thought was the right road. Eventually, I got onto the path going through the Foz de Lumbier - beautiful! I saw large birds soaring in the air. It was wonderful, but it was quite a traumatic day being lost. Very grateful for the help from the police and Guardia.

Leaving the albergue at Sanguesa

The Gorge / Foz

Hotel at Lumbier

Menu for lunch - no dinner available

30 July - Day 8 - Lumbier to Monreal - 21 km

Diary

I set off from the hotel on the highway, but I must have missed the yellow arrow leading to the path. I walked and walked. At the round about I took the route I thought was correct only ... Then opened Google Map - thought I may as well do the 21 km on the highway. I walked and walked. I got to a town and walked into it thinking it was on the route. But I met a Camino Angel who walked with me about 5 km and put me on the correct path. (I cannot find her name in my Gmail - oh dear!)

 
I walked through gates, saw cows and horses, and walked and walked. This Way is not as easy as the French or Primitivo. You have to be agile.

Eventually I reached Monreal, full albergue, people who took the main route and myself who took the variant.

Too late for lunch, but had supper in the bar. Met an interesting Hungarian pilgrim. Given up his job as an international banker in Budapest, wants to do something which satisfies his soul. The Afghan and other refugees trying to enter his country, and the borders closed, made him rethink. This is what the Camino is about - meeting people you would never meet in your normal life. I spoke about how I want to continue working to contribute to uplifting.

In this tiny town I drew cash from an ATM which videod me doing it. Very modern, for me, technology.

For the first time ever I heard that I snored.

 

31 July - Day 9 - Monreal to Tibeas - 10 km (km in Spain is much longer than km in SA)

Diary

Had lovely egg and bacon bocadilia for breakfast in bar in Monreal and left the small town at about 8.15. Walked up and down on stony roads and then stony paths. Very difficult terrain. In sun and then shade. Looked at farmers bailing their straw into bales, note on a Sunday! The farmers here WORK. Beautiful fields. At about lunch time ate a bocadilia I was carrying. Today I drank water. I took 500 mls, finished it, drank at a fountain, filled bottle and finished it.

 
I arrived at 2 in the tiny town of Tiebas, lovely modern albergue. Showered, ate and slept At the albergue I drank a coke, and after showering got a beer and potato and tuna salad from the vending machine.

As I walked I talked to ... and thanked Him that my friend is in remission from cancer.

I had no energy today and in hindsight think it is probably because yesterday had no lunch (when I arrived the bar was closed for siesta) and my supper of salad was either too late or missing in starch. Tonight only 5 pilgrims. This evening two are sleeping, two have gone to the swimming pool, and I have selected the bar. I have ordered a hamburger as I want protein and starch. The bar is huge but only has about 10 persons (I know 7pm is very early in Spain) who are playing cards.

I did not get lost today.

Hamburger in bar at Tibeas

Watched the clock chime the hour. The bells do not move - a little hammer hits the bells

1 August - Day 10 - Tibeas to Puente la Reina - 17 km

Diary

Today's walk was so much better than yesterday's - better food, rucksack taken by Correos and a much easier terrain. Not so much up and down hill with rocks. Breakfast was lovely, even with a note 'Goeie more'. Embarrassment - I did not know how to use a pod in the coffee machine. Wheat fields changed to sunflowers, vines, and asparagus. Maybe more shade cover.

Obanos was a total shock to the system. Many young pilgrims going at speed, to reach Puente la Reina or further on. Reaching an alberque in Puente I met noisy pilgrims. Not possible to have an afternoon sleep in the dorm. The noise was a shock to the system.

Bridge in the town beautiful.

Tried to get lunch in the 'main' road, only to realise it was the route for all bikers and pilgrims going on their journey. Walked out of one place. Wandered down another, and found a restaurant frequented by locals. I selected the cheapest set menu.

https://asadorelfogondeetayo.com/
Lunch was roasted pimentos with paprika, and bread; followed by a salad; followed by a plate with dried meat (pigs fed on acorns - huge delicacy) and tiny starch chips; followed by butter bean soup; followed by a huge entrecot and chips; followed by nutmeg ice cream and coffee. Lunch plus a beer, 22 euros.

That evening at the albergue was a time of flies, flying things that bit, and noise. Discussed doing the Bustan or Vadinian routes. Has long chat with retired Spanish social worker about all the refugees coming into Spain from Mali and Senegal. Did not sleep well.

Breakfast at Tibeas

Asparagus growing in the field

Best meal in Spain at Asador El Fogon de Etayo

 

27 July - Day 5 - Artieda to Undues de Lerda - 22 kms

Diary

Left the private hostel of Artieda. There were only 2 pilgrims, myself and another lady. They had prepared a lovely breakfast with packages of food for me to take. Everything was done at night ready for my early morning departure.

Today was a long day. The way marking could be improved. In the 5 km before Ruesta my face and legs were badly scratched and cut by bushes growing over the path. I could not find the path out of the tragic town of Ruesta - eventually went into the hostel, and found the guy who pointed out the route. I then started walking the longest hill I have ever met - 10 km. Very scary when I was not really sure if I was on the correct route. I should have checked the way on Gronze.com. Markers were very absent. Thank goodness for Correos who took my bag.

Eventually I reached Undues de Lerda. The albergue is huge with just 2 lady pilgrims. Had nice lunch/dinner at the bar in the town.

In the dormitory the balcony door is wide open at 21:45. The sun is setting. It is warm. The bunks here are made for children where grownups cannot sit up on the bottom bunk.

This is the strangest Camino. Two days now with no other person in the bar or walking who speaks English, and so few people. Sara not speaking with me.

Undues is a tiny town, on a hilltop. Friendly barman. The albergue is a huge old building that has been fitted out for many pilgrims. Tragic. Just Sara and myself. Was a warm evening, slept with the doors wide open with the most incredible view of the sunset, and in the morning of the sunrise. It was so warm I did not even use a sheet or sleeping bag.

I should have looked at the map and diagram on Gronze before I started walking from Ruesta. I would have seen the incline

28 July - Day 6 - Undues de Lerda to Sanguesa - 10 km

Diary

I have forgotten. Must do the diary every evening!

Writing now 6 months later - Walked into Sanguessa to find the albergue here still closed and people waiting outside. A much bigger town that the previous ones. The official arrived and let us in. Many rules and regulations. Went upstairs to the big airy dorm to sleep. I recall some persons talking loudly and ... awful. I recall walking the town trying to find a place for a meal. Eventually, found a place next to a garage. That night I was bitten by some bugs which flew in via the open window - horrendous- bites were still itchy and hard 2 weeks later.

View from the albergue at Undues de Lerda

You get electricity here for your car. I had never seen these back in my home country South Africa.

26 July - Day 4 - Arres to Artieda - 17 km

Diary

The Camino is about experiences. I have just arrived at the albergue at Artieda. The waitress is deaf and Spanish speaking. Thank goodness for Google Translate.

This camino is very very lonely. In Jaca it was just 6 persons, Sante Cilia 4, Arres 5. When you are walking in heat, with no shade or trees, the loneliness gets to one. Thank goodness I joined a Spanish chap, Victor, for most of today, and we both benefitted.

The reason and place I got lost yesterday were because I missed the sign as I came out of Puente la Reina de Jaca, apparently, it is as you cross the bridge. I walked 5km of the same road today as I did yesterday.

 
The scenery was most strange today. Huge sandstone, not rocks, but ...

The climb up to Artieda is steep!

At Artieda met Sara who was the only other guest/pilgrim at the hostel.

Said goodbye to Barbara at Arres

Victor shared some of his sausage with me

Rest stop. White road, Sun, No shade. HOT.

First time I had seen anything like this

Beautiful view

My dormitory of, I think, four beds and one occupant, had this balcony.

Lovely albergue high up. Clean, Lovely ablutions. Nicely packed lunch for the next day, Open for non-pilgrims as well as pilgrims - had some young archeologists.

24 July - Day 2 - San Juan de la Pena

Diary

From the albergue we took a taxi up to San Juan de la Pena. The monastery is built against a mountain. It is old. The taxi took us for a drink at Santa Cruz de la Seros where we saw interesting chimneys, and an 11th century church Sante Maria de Santa Cruz de la Seros where photographs were forbidden, a very special church (thank goodness).

Returning to the albergue we ate, and then went to the community swimming pool. The evening was spent at the bar.

So nice to be part of a Camino family with Karmen and Roberto.

At the bar that night I saw a popular Spanish dish of dried crumbled bread mixed and fried with fat, with some left over meat and olives.

Bread dusted with sugar from the bakery in Sante Cilia.

San Juan de la Pena

The lines of 'embossing' were unique to this area of Spain. The History teacher with us was very excited to see them.

Santa Cruz de la Seros

Every town in Spain, of a certain size, has to have a swimming pool. I think I was the only female at that pool in a full bathing costume. Everyone else wore bikinis.

From the albergue window

Bad blisters