Introduction

My Aragonese Camino started in 2018 is now completed.

The first part was from Lourdes in France, in 2018, over the mountains at Somport, in Spain, and I stopped at Jaca when I broke my leg - this was done as part of a tour group. 

The part just completed was from Jaca to Puente la Reina, solo, following the route found at gronze.com/camino-aragones I did not always walk the indicated distances. This camino is very very different to the popular French Camino and has no similarity to the 2010 movie 'The Way'.

My rucksack was carried by Correos during the week, not the weekend. The temperature was between 35 and 40 degrees C.

The route

The pilgrim passport with all the stamps

The language guide

2 August - Puente la Reina to Pamplona

Diary

In Puente la Reina walked down to the bus stop and at the scheduled time of 11.27 the bus arrived. The Spanish transport system of buses and trains is superb. Went to Pamplona. Had a coffee and sandwich and then booked into a hotel. It had been a choice between a hotel or an albergue, but I wanted to be alone and get up after 6. So nice to have one own's space. 

Nice and quiet. Calm city, not as frenetic as Madrid but maybe it is just where I am having lunch on the plaza.

3 August - Pamplona to Madrid

Diary

Took a taxi from the hotel to Pamplona train station, and caught the train to Madrid. Took a taxi to the pre-booked hotel, the same one I had used three weeks earlier. Now three weeks ago I left Cape Town in 12 degrees wearing a jacket and beanie, and the plane was very cold so I wore them on the plane. I arrived to 35 degrees in Madrid. I did not plan to carry my jacket and hat across Spain in the heat wave, so I dumped them at the hotel. I did not know what my plans were except that I was flying out of Madrid. Yesterday I decided to spend my preflight night in Madrid, and booked the same hotel. I thought a jacket and beanie would be needed on the plane, and considered replacing those items here, if necessary. I enquired at reception if by chance they had found the clothes and still had them. Hostal Lauria is to be commended. I have those clothes!

Madrid is hot and frenetic. The streets are full of people - it is difficult to believe. My room is over the Via Grande, the door is open and at 23h00 the street is still busy.

A lift to get a wheel chair up the few steps into the bar. Spain caters for the disabled.

A train full of cars (In South Africa the cars would have been stolen off the train). I remembered this station from 2011 when I did my first Camino. We arrived here by train from Madrid, and caught the bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Roman viaducts in the distance

 

29 July - Day 7 - Sanguesa to Lumbier - 10 km (landed up being 15 km)

Diary

Set off from Saguesa okay. Sara and I walked together and then Sara went ahead of me. I walked slowly but caught up with her because she had stopped. She realised that we were on the wrong track. We did not know what to do. Two local ladies came past and told us that we were on the wrong road. We had to turn around and do another extra 5 km. Sara went on ahead - she was going to Monreal and I was going to Lumbier.

(I have now found the route on Gronze.com)  I thought I got lost. I tried to follow the signs, some things I felt were wrong. Eventually, I started using Google Map. Google Map told me that to get to Lumbier I had to travel along the highway. It was raining. I had on my black poncho, and me walking around the highway. The police stopped. They wanted to know where I was going and why I was walking on the highway. I tried to explain that's the only way that I knew to get to Lumbier. Well, they took a photograph of my passport, they made me install an app to alert the police of danger and then tried themselves to find a way to get to Lumbier that wasn't on the highway. They could not. They gave me permission to go along the highway which is what I did for about 5-6 km. Along the way, I stopped at a bar for a coffee and bocadilia.

When I came out I again tried to find the right way. I was told to follow the yellow arrows. I got lost again but the police found me - they had been looking for me - they put me on what they thought was the right road. Eventually, I got onto the path going through the Foz de Lumbier - beautiful! I saw large birds soaring in the air. It was wonderful, but it was quite a traumatic day being lost. Very grateful for the help from the police and Guardia.

Leaving the albergue at Sanguesa

The Gorge / Foz

Hotel at Lumbier

Menu for lunch - no dinner available

30 July - Day 8 - Lumbier to Monreal - 21 km

Diary

I set off from the hotel on the highway, but I must have missed the yellow arrow leading to the path. I walked and walked. At the round about I took the route I thought was correct only ... Then opened Google Map - thought I may as well do the 21 km on the highway. I walked and walked. I got to a town and walked into it thinking it was on the route. But I met a Camino Angel who walked with me about 5 km and put me on the correct path. (I cannot find her name in my Gmail - oh dear!)

 
I walked through gates, saw cows and horses, and walked and walked. This Way is not as easy as the French or Primitivo. You have to be agile.

Eventually I reached Monreal, full albergue, people who took the main route and myself who took the variant.

Too late for lunch, but had supper in the bar. Met an interesting Hungarian pilgrim. Given up his job as an international banker in Budapest, wants to do something which satisfies his soul. The Afghan and other refugees trying to enter his country, and the borders closed, made him rethink. This is what the Camino is about - meeting people you would never meet in your normal life. I spoke about how I want to continue working to contribute to uplifting.

In this tiny town I drew cash from an ATM which videod me doing it. Very modern, for me, technology.

For the first time ever I heard that I snored.

 

31 July - Day 9 - Monreal to Tibeas - 10 km (km in Spain is much longer than km in SA)

Diary

Had lovely egg and bacon bocadilia for breakfast in bar in Monreal and left the small town at about 8.15. Walked up and down on stony roads and then stony paths. Very difficult terrain. In sun and then shade. Looked at farmers bailing their straw into bales, note on a Sunday! The farmers here WORK. Beautiful fields. At about lunch time ate a bocadilia I was carrying. Today I drank water. I took 500 mls, finished it, drank at a fountain, filled bottle and finished it.

 
I arrived at 2 in the tiny town of Tiebas, lovely modern albergue. Showered, ate and slept At the albergue I drank a coke, and after showering got a beer and potato and tuna salad from the vending machine.

As I walked I talked to ... and thanked Him that my friend is in remission from cancer.

I had no energy today and in hindsight think it is probably because yesterday had no lunch (when I arrived the bar was closed for siesta) and my supper of salad was either too late or missing in starch. Tonight only 5 pilgrims. This evening two are sleeping, two have gone to the swimming pool, and I have selected the bar. I have ordered a hamburger as I want protein and starch. The bar is huge but only has about 10 persons (I know 7pm is very early in Spain) who are playing cards.

I did not get lost today.

Hamburger in bar at Tibeas

Watched the clock chime the hour. The bells do not move - a little hammer hits the bells

1 August - Day 10 - Tibeas to Puente la Reina - 17 km

Diary

Today's walk was so much better than yesterday's - better food, rucksack taken by Correos and a much easier terrain. Not so much up and down hill with rocks. Breakfast was lovely, even with a note 'Goeie more'. Embarrassment - I did not know how to use a pod in the coffee machine. Wheat fields changed to sunflowers, vines, and asparagus. Maybe more shade cover.

Obanos was a total shock to the system. Many young pilgrims going at speed, to reach Puente la Reina or further on. Reaching an alberque in Puente I met noisy pilgrims. Not possible to have an afternoon sleep in the dorm. The noise was a shock to the system.

Bridge in the town beautiful.

Tried to get lunch in the 'main' road, only to realise it was the route for all bikers and pilgrims going on their journey. Walked out of one place. Wandered down another, and found a restaurant frequented by locals. I selected the cheapest set menu.

https://asadorelfogondeetayo.com/
Lunch was roasted pimentos with paprika, and bread; followed by a salad; followed by a plate with dried meat (pigs fed on acorns - huge delicacy) and tiny starch chips; followed by butter bean soup; followed by a huge entrecot and chips; followed by nutmeg ice cream and coffee. Lunch plus a beer, 22 euros.

That evening at the albergue was a time of flies, flying things that bit, and noise. Discussed doing the Bustan or Vadinian routes. Has long chat with retired Spanish social worker about all the refugees coming into Spain from Mali and Senegal. Did not sleep well.

Breakfast at Tibeas

Asparagus growing in the field

Best meal in Spain at Asador El Fogon de Etayo